Q: How do Blue Arrow estimates work?

Every project starts with a free roof inspection . We measure the roof, photograph every slope, count the shingle layers, check the attic and decking, and come back with a written line-item estimate — squares, underlayment, ice-and-water shield, flashing, ventilation, decking allowance, disposal, and warranty. No phone-quote guesses, no surprise add-ons after tear-off. When a repair is a realistic option, we price it next to the replacement so you can see both. Typical Kansas City ranges, so you have a frame of reference before we visit: Roof repair : $350–$1,500 for most leaks, chimney flashing, pipe boots, and missing shingles — the right answer for a lot of older roofs. Roof replacement : $9,000–$18,000 for architectural asphalt shingles on a typical 2,000 sq ft home. A small one-story house with a simple roofline usually lands at the low end or under it; a steep two-story lands at the top. Gutters : $8–$15 per linear foot installed. Siding : $9–$16 per sq ft installed for a full re-side; repairs and trim work are quoted by the wall or the foot. Commercial TPO : $6–$10 per sq ft. Your number depends on pitch, layers, decking condition, and the product you choose. If a storm caused the damage and the claim is approved, your cost is usually your deductible rather than the full number. Details by service live on each service page .

Q: What warranties come with the work?

Two separate warranties, both in writing on your estimate: Manufacturer warranty on the materials — GAF, Owens Corning, CertainTeed, or Malarkey, depending on the product you choose. Terms vary by line and are strongest when the full brand system (starter, underlayment, ridge, ventilation) is installed together. Workmanship warranty from Blue Arrow on every install and every repair. The manufacturer covers the shingle; we cover the roof. Keep the invoice and the product name — they're your warranty documents, they're what a buyer's inspector asks for at resale, and they're what your insurer wants for a Class 4 impact-resistant discount. Note that manufacturer warranties generally exclude hail and storm damage; that's what your homeowner policy is for.

Q: What happens after I send a request?

Step by step: A real person reads it. Requests go to our team, not a call center. You'll hear back the same business day or the next morning. We schedule the inspection. Usually within a few days — faster for active leaks. The inspection. About an hour on site. We walk every slope, photograph findings, check the attic, and look at gutters and flashing. On an older house we also count layers and probe the decking, because that's what decides the price. The written estimate. Line items, product names, and both warranties — no vague totals. If a repair is realistic, it's priced alongside the replacement. If insurance is involved, the scope is built to match the carrier's format. Start from the contact page — the form takes about a minute.

Question 1

How do Blue Arrow estimates work?

Accepted Answer

Every project starts with a free roof inspection. We measure the roof, photograph every slope, count the shingle layers, check the attic and decking, and come back with a written line-item estimate — squares, underlayment, ice-and-water shield, flashing, ventilation, decking allowance, disposal, and warranty. No phone-quote guesses, no surprise add-ons after tear-off. When a repair is a realistic option, we price it next to the replacement so you can see both.

Typical Kansas City ranges, so you have a frame of reference before we visit:

Roof repair: $350–$1,500 for most leaks, chimney flashing, pipe boots, and missing shingles — the right answer for a lot of older roofs.
Roof replacement: $9,000–$18,000 for architectural asphalt shingles on a typical 2,000 sq ft home. A small one-story house with a simple roofline usually lands at the low end or under it; a steep two-story lands at the top.
Gutters: $8–$15 per linear foot installed.
Siding: $9–$16 per sq ft installed for a full re-side; repairs and trim work are quoted by the wall or the foot.
Commercial TPO: $6–$10 per sq ft.

Your number depends on pitch, layers, decking condition, and the product you choose. If a storm caused the damage and the claim is approved, your cost is usually your deductible rather than the full number. Details by service live on each service page.

Question 2

What areas do you serve?

Accepted Answer

The Kansas City metro and roughly 60 miles out, on both sides of the state line. Our shop is at 4320 Dr. Martin Luther King Jr. Blvd, between Swope Park and Blue Hills, and a lot of our work is within a few miles of it — but we are on roofs in Johnson County and the Northland just as often.

Not on the list? If you're within about an hour of Kansas City, ask — we probably cover you. Browse all service areas or see who we serve.

Question 3

How fast can you get out after a storm?

Accepted Answer

For active leaks we offer emergency tarping to stop the water while the claim and repair get sorted — reach out any time and we'll get to you as quickly as we can. For inspections after a hail or wind event, most metro homeowners are scheduled within a few days; during a major regional storm the queue gets longer and we work it in the order requests come in, with water-coming-in first.

Two things speed everything up: photos of any visible damage sent with your request, and your policy declarations page so we know whether it's an ACV or RCV policy before we meet the adjuster. Landlords: send the tenant's contact and we'll coordinate access directly. Spring hail season (March–June) is our busiest stretch — if you've got a deadline, tell us the date.

Question 4

Are you licensed and insured?

Accepted Answer

Yes. Blue Arrow Roofing is a fully insured, registered roofing contractor in Kansas, and we carry general liability and workers' compensation coverage on every job in both Missouri and Kansas. A certificate of insurance is available on request, with your HOA or property manager listed as a certificate holder if needed.

One thing worth knowing: Missouri has no statewide roofing contractor license, so on the Missouri side the meaningful checks are insurance, references, and local presence. Kansas requires roofing contractors to register with the state, and we are. Ask any roofer who knocks on your door after a storm for the same three things — a certificate of insurance, a local address, and references you can call — and watch how fast the conversation changes. We're family-owned and based in Kansas City — more about us.

Question 5

Do you offer financing?

Accepted Answer

Ask about financing options when you request your estimate — there are ways to spread the cost of a roof replacement, an insurance deductible, or a larger siding project so a storm doesn't have to become a cash crisis. We'll tell you what's available at the time; we don't promise terms or approvals, and we don't bury financing costs in the price. If the roof is going through an insurance claim, we'll also walk you through how the deductible and depreciation holdback affect what you actually pay out of pocket, so the financing question is based on the real number. And if a repair is the honest answer for this year, we say so — a $500 fix you can pay for beats a roof you can't. No pressure either way.

Question 6

How do I pay?

Accepted Answer

Check, ACH, or card. Small repairs are paid on completion — no deposit. On a replacement, a deposit covers materials once the job is scheduled, and the balance is due on completion after the final walk-through and magnetic nail sweep. For insurance jobs, the invoice is structured to match the carrier's scope so your recoverable depreciation can be released cleanly, and your deductible is paid to us as part of the balance — not to the carrier. We never inflate an invoice or "waive" a deductible, which is insurance fraud in both Missouri and Kansas. Commercial and HOA accounts can be set up on milestone billing.

Question 7

What warranties come with the work?

Accepted Answer

Two separate warranties, both in writing on your estimate:

Manufacturer warranty on the materials — GAF, Owens Corning, CertainTeed, or Malarkey, depending on the product you choose. Terms vary by line and are strongest when the full brand system (starter, underlayment, ridge, ventilation) is installed together.
Workmanship warranty from Blue Arrow on every install and every repair. The manufacturer covers the shingle; we cover the roof.

Keep the invoice and the product name — they're your warranty documents, they're what a buyer's inspector asks for at resale, and they're what your insurer wants for a Class 4 impact-resistant discount. Note that manufacturer warranties generally exclude hail and storm damage; that's what your homeowner policy is for.

Question 8

Can you handle my HOA's approval process?

Accepted Answer

Yes. Most Johnson County, Lee's Summit, and Northland HOAs require an architectural-review (ARC) submittal before a roof, siding, or gutter change. We prepare the packet — product name, color sample matched to the approved palette, manufacturer spec sheet, insurance certificate, and a scope of work — so the board has what it needs to approve on the first pass. Class 4 impact-resistant lines come in the standard approved colors, so upgrading rarely means a second review. For community-wide projects after a storm, we work directly with HOA boards on phased scheduling and consistent products across homes. Property managers get the same packet for their ownership.

Question 9

What happens after I send a request?

Accepted Answer

Step by step:

A real person reads it. Requests go to our team, not a call center. You'll hear back the same business day or the next morning.
We schedule the inspection. Usually within a few days — faster for active leaks.
The inspection. About an hour on site. We walk every slope, photograph findings, check the attic, and look at gutters and flashing. On an older house we also count layers and probe the decking, because that's what decides the price.
The written estimate. Line items, product names, and both warranties — no vague totals. If a repair is realistic, it's priced alongside the replacement. If insurance is involved, the scope is built to match the carrier's format.

Start from the contact page — the form takes about a minute.

Question 10

Are roof inspections really free?

Accepted Answer

Yes. Roof inspections and written estimates are free across the Kansas City metro, whether you're a homeowner after a storm, a landlord whose tenant reported a stain, a buyer in an inspection period, a seller getting ahead of the buyer's inspector, or an adult child sorting out a parent's house. You get a slope-by-slope photo report either way, written plainly enough to explain to someone else. It doesn't obligate you to hire us, and we'll tell you if the roof doesn't need work — or if it needs a $400 repair and nothing more.

Question 11

How does the insurance-claim process work?

Accepted Answer

You stay in control of the claim; we handle the documentation.

Free inspection first. We photograph the damage, mark test squares, and give you an honest read on whether it likely clears a typical deductible.
You open the claim. Only the policyholder can file. We never file for you or ask you to sign over your claim.
We meet the adjuster. Walking the roof together with the squares already marked removes most of the guesswork.
The scope gets built. Our estimate matches the carrier's line items, and we explain any differences in writing — including whether your policy pays replacement cost (RCV, with depreciation held back until the work is done) or actual cash value (ACV, which pays the depreciated value of an old roof and can fall short of a replacement).
The work, then the paperwork. After the install, the final invoice goes to your carrier to release any recoverable depreciation.

On an approved claim, your cost is usually your deductible. We can't promise an outcome — some roofs are worn out, and some storms don't clear the deductible. What we can promise is that the decision gets made on complete evidence, and that nobody here will offer to "waive" your deductible, which is illegal in Missouri and Kansas. See insurance-claims assistance and the blog for what to do if a claim is denied.

Question 12

My roof is 20+ years old and my insurance company is threatening to cancel — what are my options?

Accepted Answer

This letter is landing in a lot of Kansas City mailboxes — on the 1950s houses across the East Side and Northeast, and on the 1990s subdivisions in Johnson County and Lee's Summit where whole streets of roofs hit 20 at once. It's an underwriting decision, not a claim: the carrier isn't offering to pay for anything. Your realistic options, in the order we'd check them:

Get a free, documented inspection. Some carriers accept a contractor's condition report showing remaining life; some don't, and some have decided not to insure roofs past a certain age regardless. You need the honest answer either way, and we won't write a report that says a worn-out roof is fine.
Check for storm damage. If hail or wind has damaged the roof, an insurance claim may be the realistic path to the replacement they're asking for — on an approved claim your cost is usually your deductible. We can't promise the outcome, only the documentation.
Shop the policy. An independent agent can tell you which carriers will still write an older roof. Some will, at actual cash value, which pays less on a future claim but keeps you covered.
Repair what's actually wrong. If the roof is sound apart from flashing or a few bad spots, a repair plus a dated report is sometimes enough, and it's always cheaper than replacing on a deadline.
Replace it on your terms. If the roof really is done, a replacement with a written scope and financing options beats letting the deadline hand you to the first truck that knocks. Ask about financing when we quote.

If you're handling this for a parent, we'll put the report in writing you can explain at the kitchen table.

Question 13

Is a roof even worth it on a house that's only worth $80,000?

Accepted Answer

Honest answer: it depends on what the roof needs, and a full replacement is not the only option. A new roof on a house in Blue Hills, Ivanhoe, or Santa Fe can be a big share of what the house is worth, so we don't start there.

Repair first. Most leaks on a 1950s roof — chimney flashing, a pipe boot, a section of soft decking — are a $350–$1,500 repair, and a good one buys years. That's the right answer more often than not.
Insurance is the realistic path to a replacement. If hail or wind damaged the roof, an approved claim usually means your cost is the deductible. We document the damage and meet the adjuster; we can't promise the outcome.
If you own the house outright, the roof is what protects it. Water gets into the ceilings, then the walls, then the wiring, and a house that has lost its roof loses value fast. Keeping the roof sound is how a paid-off house stays something you can live in, borrow against, or leave to someone.
If you rent it out or plan to sell, a leaking roof costs you tenants, rent, and the buyer's inspection. Even a documented repair and a clean condition report changes the conversation.

What we won't do is talk you into a roof the house doesn't need. Start with a free inspection — you get a written answer either way, and if the answer is a $400 repair, that's what we quote.

Question 14

Do you work with landlords and rental properties?

Accepted Answer

Yes — a lot of the houses we work on are rentals, from a single house in Marlborough or Hickman Mills to a landlord with a dozen across the metro. What rental owners tell us they need is simple: a fast, cheap, documented fix when a tenant reports a leak, photos so you don't have to drive over, an invoice that works for your records and your carrier, and one contact for every address. We coordinate access with the tenant directly, tarp if water is coming in, and give you a straight repair-versus-replace read on each roof so you can plan the big ones. Only the policyholder can file a claim, so if a storm is involved we get you the documentation and you make the call. Property managers get the same across a portfolio, and multifamily flat roofs fall under commercial roofing.

Question 15

Who will actually be on my roof?

Accepted Answer

Crews managed and supervised by Blue Arrow, with a named project lead you can reach by phone. We're a small, family-owned Kansas City company — the people who inspect your roof are the ones who show up. We don't hand your job to a crew you've never heard of and disappear, and we don't sell a lead to whoever is door-knocking your block this week. The same team that inspects your roof coordinates the install, does the final walk-through, and answers the call if anything comes up under the workmanship warranty. Specialty trades — an electrician for solar or a licensed plumber if a vent stack has to move — are brought in when the job calls for it, and we tell you up front. More about how we work →

Question 16

How much does a roof replacement cost in Kansas City?

Accepted Answer

Typically $9,000–$18,000 for a 2,000 sq ft home, or about $4.50–$9 per square foot installed. A one-story 1950s house with a simple roofline usually lands at the low end of that range or under it; a steep two-story in Leawood with a lot of valleys lands at the top. What moves the number: pitch and complexity, how many layers come off, how much decking has to be replaced, and shingle grade — Class 4 impact-resistant shingles cost more up front than standard architectural. On an approved storm claim, your cost is usually your deductible rather than the full number. Start with a free inspection and you get a written, line-item scope, with a repair option priced alongside it when one is realistic. Request one here.

Question 17

Do I need a full replacement, or can it be repaired?

Accepted Answer

Depends on age, how widespread the damage is, and what is under the shingles. A single leak or a patch of wind-lifted shingles on a 10-year-old roof is a repair, typically $350–$1,500. A 1950s roof with one leak at the chimney can often be repaired too, even on its second layer, and that is what we quote first. Hail bruising across every slope, granule loss you can see from the driveway, decking you can push a thumb through, or a roof past 20 years is usually a replacement. We inspect first and tell you which — we do not sell a new roof to someone who needs a $500 fix, and we do not sell a $500 fix on a roof that will leak again by spring.

Question 18

My insurer says replace the roof or they will drop me — what now?

Accepted Answer

That letter is common now on roofs past 15–20 years in both Missouri and Kansas, and it is not a claim — the carrier is not offering to pay for anything. You usually have a few options, and the right one depends on what the roof actually looks like:

Get it inspected and documented. Some carriers will accept a contractor's written condition report showing remaining life; some will not. Ours is free and honest either way.
Check for storm damage. If a hail or wind event damaged the roof, a claim may be the realistic path to the replacement they are asking for, with your cost usually being the deductible. We cannot promise the outcome.
Shop the policy. An independent agent can tell you which carriers will still write an older roof, sometimes at actual cash value.
Replace it, with financing if the cash is not there — ask us about options when we quote it.

Do not let the deadline push you into signing with a door-knocker. We will tell you what the roof needs and what it does not, in writing you can send to your agent. The general FAQ walks through this in more detail.

Question 19

What if I cannot afford the deductible?

Accepted Answer

First, the honest part: nobody can legally waive it. Contractors who offer to eat your deductible in Missouri or Kansas are committing insurance fraud, and they make up the difference on your roof. What we can do is be straight about timing and options. The deductible is your share of the job and is paid to us, not the carrier, so it is usually due as the work is scheduled and completed rather than the day you file. Financing options exist for the deductible and for anything the policy does not cover — ask about them when we quote, and we will tell you what is available. If the claim is on an actual cash value policy and the check falls short of a replacement, we will also price a repair that stops the leak now. No pressure, no promises about what the carrier will do.

Question 20

Will my insurance pay for a new roof?

Accepted Answer

Sometimes — if a covered event (hail, wind, fallen tree) caused the damage and your policy covers it. Insurance does not pay for a roof that simply wore out. How much it pays depends on the policy: a replacement cost (RCV) policy pays for a new roof, holding back depreciation until the work is done; an actual cash value (ACV) policy pays the depreciated value only, which on an old roof can fall well short of a replacement. On an approved claim your cost is usually your deductible. We cannot promise an outcome; what we can do is document the damage properly, meet your adjuster on the roof, and make sure the scope reflects what the roof actually needs. If you are dealing with the aftermath of a storm, start with the inspection before you file. See our storm damage restoration page for the full process.

Question 21

Which shingle brands do you install?

Accepted Answer

GAF, Owens Corning, CertainTeed, and Malarkey. Most Kansas City homes get an architectural (dimensional) shingle, and that is a good roof — we do not push premium lines on a house that does not need them. Premium lines add thicker profiles and richer color blends. Class 4 impact-resistant shingles from any of the four are the upgrade we recommend most where the budget allows, because hail is the thing most likely to end your roof early here. We will walk you through samples at the inspection.

Question 22

What are Class 4 impact-resistant shingles, and are they worth it in KC?

Accepted Answer

Class 4 is the highest rating under the UL 2218 impact test — the shingle survives a 2-inch steel ball dropped from 20 feet without cracking. In a metro that sees hail every spring, that matters. Many Missouri and Kansas insurers offer a premium discount for Class 4 roofs; the amount varies, so check with your carrier. The up-front cost is higher than standard architectural shingles. For Johnson County homeowners and anyone planning to stay put, the math usually works. If a replacement is already stretching the budget, a well-installed architectural shingle is still a sound roof, and we will say so.

Question 23

How long does a roof replacement take?

Accepted Answer

Most Kansas City homes are done in one to two days. Larger or steeper roofs, two layers coming off, or heavy decking replacement can push it to three. Weather is the wildcard — we do not tear off if rain is coming, because an open deck is a bigger problem than a delay. You will know the schedule before we start.

Question 24

Can you install new shingles over my existing roof?

Accepted Answer

We do not recommend it and rarely do it. A layover hides rotted decking, adds weight, traps heat, and shortens the life of the new shingles. Many manufacturer warranties limit coverage on overlays, and insurers often scope for a full tear-off anyway. On older Kansas City houses it is often not even an option: code in most of the metro allows at most two layers, and a lot of 1950s roofs already have two. A proper tear-off replacement costs more today and saves you from doing it twice.

Question 25

What warranty comes with a new roof?

Accepted Answer

Two warranties. The manufacturer's limited warranty on the shingles (GAF, Owens Corning, CertainTeed, and Malarkey each offer their own terms, and we register it in your name), plus our written workmanship warranty on the installation. Keep the invoice and the registration — they are your warranty documents, and they are what a buyer's inspector and your insurer will ask for. Our general FAQ covers warranty questions across every service.

Question 26

Do you replace roofs in Johnson County and on the Kansas side?

Accepted Answer

Yes — both sides of the state line, from the Northland down to Belton and out to Lawrence. Johnson County homeowners in Overland Park, Olathe, Leawood, and Shawnee make up a big share of our replacement work, partly because Johnson County catches more than its share of hail and partly because so many of its roofs went on in the same few years. We handle HOA architectural-review packets and color matching there as a matter of course. We are licensed and insured in both Missouri and Kansas.

Question 27

Should I replace my roof before selling my house?

Accepted Answer

Not automatically. A free inspection tells you whether the roof will pass a buyer's inspection or become a negotiating chip against you. Sometimes a targeted repair and a written condition report is the smart move; sometimes a new roof adds more to the sale than it costs. We work with realtors and home sellers on both and will give you a straight answer either way.

Question 28

Do you replace roofs on rental houses and for landlords?

Accepted Answer

Yes. Landlords with houses in Blue Hills, Marlborough, Ruskin Heights, and across the metro use us for the same reason homeowners do: a written scope, a repair option priced against the replacement, and photos so you do not have to drive over. We coordinate access with tenants and can run several addresses through one contact. For a rental the math is usually about protecting the income — a roof leaking into a tenant's bedroom costs more than the roof — and we give you a straight repair-versus-replace read on each property.

Question 29

What about attic ventilation and ice dams?

Accepted Answer

Ventilation is the part of a roof most contractors skip. Without balanced intake at the soffits and exhaust at the ridge, your attic runs hot in July and traps moisture in January — which is how ice dams form and push water under the shingles. Every replacement includes a ventilation check, and we add ridge vent and ice-and-water shield along the eaves as standard. Pairs well with new gutters if yours are contributing to the problem.

Question 30

How much does a roof repair cost in Kansas City?

Accepted Answer

Most repairs run $350–$1,500. A cracked pipe boot, a handful of blown-off shingles, or resealing a section of flashing sits at the low end, usually $350–$600. Reflashing a chimney, rebuilding a valley, or replacing a section of soft decking sits at the top. Anything beyond that, and we start a conversation about whether a replacement makes more sense — but we price the repair too, because sometimes a $700 fix that holds for four years is the right answer for the house and the budget. The inspection is free, the quote is in writing, and repairs are paid on completion.

Question 31

Can a 1950s roof with two layers be repaired, or does it have to come off?

Accepted Answer

Often it can be repaired, and we will tell you when it cannot. Two layers make a repair harder — new shingles have to be worked into a thicker, more brittle stack, and the leak is usually at a chimney, a valley, or a wall where both layers were flashed badly — but a leak in one spot on an otherwise sound roof is still a repair, typically at the higher end of the $350–$1,500 range. What changes the answer is what is underneath. If the plank decking is soft across a whole slope, the shingles crumble when lifted, or you are patching a new spot every season, the repair money is better put toward a replacement, and code in most of the metro will require both layers to come off when that day comes. We get on the roof, lift a few shingles, check the attic, and tell you which one you have — with photos, so you can show someone else.

Question 32

Will insurance cover a roof repair?

Accepted Answer

If the damage came from a covered event — wind, hail, a fallen limb — often yes, minus your deductible. General wear, old flashing, or a pipe boot that dried out is maintenance, and insurance does not pay for maintenance. Do the math before you file: a $600 repair against a $1,000 deductible is not a claim, and a small claim on your history does not help you. If the storm damage is bigger than it looks from the ground, an approved claim usually means your cost is the deductible and the roof gets replaced rather than patched. Our insurance claims assistance page explains ACV versus RCV and how the process works. We are not a public adjuster or attorney — we document and repair.

Question 33

Do you repair roofs on rental properties?

Accepted Answer

Yes — we work with a lot of landlords and rental property owners, including owners with a few houses in Blue Hills, Ivanhoe, or Hickman Mills who need a fast, cheap, documented fix when a tenant reports a stain. We coordinate access with the tenant directly, fix the actual leak rather than the symptom, and send before-and-after photos and an invoice for your file so you do not have to drive over. One contact can cover several roofs. Property managers get the same treatment across a portfolio.

Question 34

How do I know if my roof is leaking?

Accepted Answer

Water stains on a ceiling, a damp attic, peeling paint near the roofline, or granules piling up in the gutters. A leak almost never shows up directly under the hole — water travels along the decking before it drops. That is why we trace it from the roof, not the ceiling. If you see a stain, send us a photo and we will get you scheduled.

Question 35

My chimney leaks every time it rains hard. Is that a roof problem or a chimney problem?

Accepted Answer

Usually the flashing, which is a roof problem. On the brick homes across the East Side, Northeast, and Waldo, the original step and counter flashing has often been tarred over two or three times instead of replaced, and tar lasts a couple of seasons. Reflashing a chimney properly — new step flashing worked into the shingles, new counter flashing cut into the mortar joints — typically runs at the higher end of our repair range and fixes it for good. If the brick itself is spalling or the crown is cracked, that is masonry work, and we will tell you so rather than sell you a roof repair that will not hold.

Question 36

Do you do emergency repairs?

Accepted Answer

Yes. If a storm opens up your roof, we tarp it to stop the water and come back for the permanent fix. Emergency tarping is available around the clock during storm season, though we schedule by severity, so a roof with active water coming in comes first. See our storm damage page for what to do in the first 24 hours.

Question 37

Should I repair or replace?

Accepted Answer

Rule of thumb: if the roof is under 15 years old and the damage is in one area, repair it. If it is over 20, has damage on multiple slopes, or you are repairing it every year, replacement is cheaper over time. Between those, the budget is part of the answer, and we do not pretend otherwise. If a replacement is not in reach this year, a repair that buys three or four honest years is a legitimate plan, and we will tell you what to watch for in the meantime. We tell you which one at the inspection, with photos, and we do not push a new roof on someone who needs a repair.

Question 38

Can you match my existing shingles?

Accepted Answer

Usually. GAF, Owens Corning, CertainTeed, and Malarkey all keep long-running color lines, and we can match most roofs under about 15 years old closely enough that you will not notice from the street. Older or discontinued colors get the nearest current match — on a 30-year-old three-tab roof the patch will show, and we would rather tell you that than pretend. If the roof is old enough that nothing matches, that is one more sign it may be time to plan a replacement, but a visible patch that keeps water out beats a leak.

Question 39

What causes ice dams, and can you fix the damage?

Accepted Answer

Heat leaking into the attic melts snow on the roof; it refreezes at the cold eave and builds a dam that pushes water back under the shingles. We repair the damaged shingles and decking, add ice-and-water shield at the eave, and fix the ventilation that caused it. Pairs with gutter work when the gutters are part of the problem.

Question 40

How fast can you get to me?

Accepted Answer

Active leaks and storm damage get priority — usually within a day or two, faster when water is coming in. Non-urgent repairs are typically scheduled within the week. During a big hail event across Kansas City the whole metro is calling at once, so tarping comes first and permanent repairs follow.

Question 41

Is the roof inspection really free?

Accepted Answer

Yes. No charge, no obligation. We do it because most people do not know what is on their roof, and an inspection is how we earn the repair or replacement if one is needed. If the roof is fine, you get a written report saying so and we leave. If it needs a $400 repair, you get that quote and nothing bigger. Schedule one here.

Question 42

My insurance company wants proof my roof is in good shape or they will not renew. Can you provide that?

Accepted Answer

We can inspect it and give you a dated, photo-documented condition report with the roof's approximate age, number of layers, and remaining life — and it is free. Whether your carrier accepts a contractor's report is up to the carrier; some do, some send their own inspector, and some have simply decided not to write roofs past a certain age. What we will not do is write a report that says a worn-out roof is fine, because that report fails the first time it rains. If the roof really is at the end, the report also tells you what a repair or replacement would involve, and whether there is storm damage that might make an insurance claim the realistic path. Send it to your agent; if you are shopping carriers, it helps there too.

Question 43

Can you inspect before I file an insurance claim?

Accepted Answer

You should. Filing a claim with no damage can count against you, and filing after the window has closed gets you nothing. We inspect first, document what we find, and tell you honestly whether it is worth a claim — including whether the damage is likely to clear your deductible. If it is, our insurance claims assistance covers the next steps. We are not a public adjuster or attorney.

Question 44

What does an inspection on a 1950s house look for that a newer one does not?

Accepted Answer

Layers, decking, and flashing. A lot of the houses in Blue Hills, Santa Fe, Palestine, and along Independence Avenue are on their third or fourth roof, and the questions that decide the price are how many shingle layers are stacked, whether the plank decking underneath is still solid, and whether the chimney and wall flashing were ever replaced or just tarred over. We lift shingles at the eave, check the attic for daylight and soft spots, and look at the boxed gutters and fascia that older homes often have. The report says plainly whether you are looking at a repair, a tear-off, or a tear-off plus decking, so the estimate does not grow after the shingles come off.

Question 45

What do you look for?

Accepted Answer

Hail bruising and granule loss, lifted or missing shingles, cracked pipe boots, rusted or separated flashing, nail pops, soft decking, clogged or damaged gutters, and attic ventilation. We also note the roof's approximate age and remaining life. All of it goes in the report with photos, so you can see what we saw.

Question 46

What does hail damage actually look like?

Accepted Answer

On asphalt shingles, hail leaves round bruises where the granules are knocked off and the mat underneath is soft or fractured. From the ground it looks like nothing. Dented gutters, downspouts, and soft metal on the roof are the tell-tale signs. It is easy to confuse with blistering or wear, which is why documentation matters — see our storm damage page for what happens next if we find it.

Question 47

How often should I have my roof inspected in Kansas City?

Accepted Answer

Once a year, and after any significant hail or wind storm. Spring hail season runs March through June, and the damage it causes often does not leak until later. An annual look catches flashing and boot failures before they become ceiling stains. Kansas City homeowners who stay on top of it rarely get surprised.

Question 48

Should I get a roof inspection before buying a house?

Accepted Answer

Yes. A general home inspector looks at the roof from a ladder or the ground; we get on it. For new homebuyers, knowing whether the roof has three years left or fifteen changes what you offer — and on an older house, knowing whether there are two layers and plank decking changes it more. We put it in writing so your agent can use it in negotiation.

Question 49

I am handling this for a parent who lives across town. Can you work with me instead?

Accepted Answer

Yes, that is common. Tell us who will be at the house and who makes the decisions, and we will send the report and the quote to you, walk you through it by phone, and put it in writing plain enough to explain at the kitchen table. Some families are dealing with a non-renewal letter, some with a leak that has been going on longer than anyone admitted. Either way you get photos, a clear repair-versus-replace answer, and no pressure on the person at the house.

Question 50

Do you actually get on the roof?

Accepted Answer

Yes, whenever it is safe to walk. Steep or fragile roofs get ladder-edge and drone or pole-camera documentation instead. Either way you get photos, not a guess from the driveway.

Question 51

How long does an inspection take?

Accepted Answer

Typically 30–60 minutes on-site for a normal home, longer for large or complex roofs. You get the written report within a day or two, faster if you have an adjuster meeting coming up.

Question 52

Do you inspect commercial and multifamily roofs?

Accepted Answer

Yes. Flat and low-slope roofs get a walk of the membrane, seams, drains, and penetrations. Commercial property managers and HOA boards usually want a condition report they can put in front of an owner or a board — see commercial roofing for what that looks like.

Question 53

What if you find nothing wrong?

Accepted Answer

Then we tell you that. You get a written report that says the roof is in good shape, which is worth having when you sell or if a door-knocker shows up after the next storm telling you otherwise. Our general FAQ has more on how we operate.

Question 54

What should I do right after a storm?

Accepted Answer

Check for water inside — attic, ceilings, around chimneys and vents.
Take photos of anything obvious from the ground: missing shingles, dented gutters, debris.
Call us for tarping if water is coming in, and a free inspection either way.
Do not sign anything with a door-knocker — not a contract, and not an assignment of benefits.

Inspect before you file — you want to know whether there is damage worth a claim first. Our after-the-storm guide covers the full sequence.

Question 55

What does storm damage restoration cost?

Accepted Answer

If the claim is approved, your cost is usually your deductible, and the insurance settlement covers the repair or replacement scope. Two things change that. On an actual cash value (ACV) policy the carrier pays the depreciated value of an old roof, and the check can fall well short of a replacement — you would cover the gap or choose a repair. And if the claim is denied or the damage is below your deductible, you are looking at normal repair pricing ($350–$1,500 typical) or replacement pricing ($9,000–$18,000 typical for a 2,000 sq ft home, less for a small one-story). Emergency tarping runs $250–$600 depending on the size of the opening. We cannot promise what your insurer will approve, and we will tell you where you stand before you spend anything.

Question 56

My hail claim was denied. Is that the end of it?

Accepted Answer

Not always. Denials happen for a few common reasons: the adjuster called it wear instead of hail, the documentation was thin, the roof was written off as too old to have been damaged, or the damage was below the deductible. Ask for the denial in writing, then have us look at it against our photos. A re-inspection request with clear test-square photos and a written supplement often gets a second adjuster out, and sometimes a different answer. If the roof really is worn out and the storm did not change that, we will say so, and the conversation becomes repair or replacement on your own terms. We are not a public adjuster or attorney; if a claim needs one, we will tell you. See insurance claims assistance for details.

Question 57

Will you waive my deductible?

Accepted Answer

No. Contractors offering to eat the deductible are committing insurance fraud in Missouri and Kansas, and they make it up by inflating the invoice or cutting corners on your roof — thinner underlayment, skipped ice-and-water shield, rotten decking left under new shingles. It also puts your claim at risk if the carrier finds out. Your deductible is your share of the claim. What we do instead is make sure the claim scope covers everything the storm actually damaged, so you are not paying out of pocket for things insurance should have covered, and we can talk through financing for the deductible if the cash is not there.

Question 58

How do I spot a roofing scam after a storm?

Accepted Answer

The usual signs: someone knocks on your door within days of the storm, pushes you to sign a contract or an assignment of benefits today, offers to waive or pay your deductible (illegal for contractors in both Missouri and Kansas), has an out-of-state plate and no local address, or asks for a large cash deposit. The blocks around Swope Park, Blue Hills, and Ruskin Heights get worked hard after every hail event because the trucks assume nobody will check. A legitimate roofer inspects, documents, gives you a written scope, and lets you decide. We have a Kansas City address and a FAQ that explains exactly how we work.

Question 59

The storm damaged my roof but my policy only pays actual cash value. What are my options?

Accepted Answer

An ACV policy pays what the old roof was worth, not what a new one costs, so on a 20-year-old roof the check may cover a fraction of a replacement. Your options, honestly: use the check plus your own funds or financing for the full replacement; use it for a solid repair that stops the leaks and buys time; or, if the roof is sound apart from the storm damage, repair just the storm damage and keep the rest. We price all three so you can decide with real numbers. Check your declarations page for the roof schedule — many carriers moved older roofs to ACV without homeowners noticing.

Question 60

How do I know if I have hail damage?

Accepted Answer

Dented gutters and downspouts, dings in soft metal roof vents, and granules piling up at the downspout outlets are the ground-level signs. On the roof, hail leaves round bruises where the shingle mat is fractured under missing granules. It does not always leak right away — sometimes not for a year or more. That is the problem: by the time it leaks, your claim window may have closed. Get it documented now.

Question 61

How long do I have to file a storm claim?

Accepted Answer

It depends on your policy. Many Missouri and Kansas policies give you a limited window after the date of loss — often around a year, sometimes less — so check your policy or ask your agent. Do not wait for a leak to show up. A documented inspection now gives you the date and the evidence if you need to file later. We are not attorneys and this is not legal advice.

Question 62

How quickly can you get out after a storm?

Accepted Answer

Tarping and active leaks come first — usually within a day, faster when water is inside. Inspections follow by severity. When a big hail event hits all of Kansas City at once we are busier than usual, but we schedule honestly instead of overpromising and disappearing.

Question 63

Do you handle gutters and siding damaged in the same storm?

Accepted Answer

Yes. Hail that damages shingles usually dents the gutters and cracks vinyl siding on the storm-facing side too. We document all of it in one inspection so the whole exterior goes into a single claim and a single restoration project.

Question 64

My tenant says the roof is leaking after the storm. What do you need from me?

Accepted Answer

The address, the tenant's contact, and a photo of the stain if they can send one. We coordinate access with the tenant directly, tarp if water is coming in, and get you photos of the damage the same day so you can decide whether it is a repair or a claim. If it is a claim, only you as the policyholder can file, and we give you the documentation to do it. Landlords with several houses can run every address through one contact, and the invoices are written so they work for your records and the carrier.

Everything you're wondering.

Questions Kansas City homeowners ask.

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